Back to the Future [Alexander McQueen Fall 2012]

Sarah Burton throws us a curve ball and takes fashion in a creative and fresh direction for Fall 2012. The look is all about volume and texture. Models were completely enveloped in the plushest fabrics or at the very least swathed in luscious furs. The silhouette was largely cinched at the waist, but full skirted at the hips and expansive at the shoulders. Burton accessorized the look with shearling covered boots of the heelless wedge variety and oversized futuristic visors. The pale color palette was surprisingly light for fall, and while the pieces moved beautifully on the runway, there was an ominous, dark edge to the collection. Aesthetics aside, it looks like Burton is predicting a more severe or harsh environment in the future ahead; at least we'll be well dressed.

The New Anna Karenina [Balmain Fall 2012]

Olivier Rousteing continues his run at Balmain with yet another exquisitely luxurious collection. The 26 year-old creative director carried over much of the Russian theme from Pre-Fall, but what's missing this time around is all the fuss. Where the previous collection was polished, this show was relaxed. All of the spectacular details remained: leather sweatshirts were outfitted with floral embroideries, dresses were encrusted with pearls and velvet was dévoré with intricate Fabergé patterns. But boxier silhouettes, no jewelry and clean faced models made the clothes feel easy. The collection maintained all the expensive elements (including the price tag) that fans of the brand expect, but with none of the pretentious severity normally associated with pearls, velvet and leather. We'll call it casual luxury.

Lamb Chops Play Along [Men's Shearling Coats]

Though not nearly as cold as winters past, this season is proving to be less mild than last year's. And menswear designers from Carven to Gucci and McQueen are prepared. This season, shearling was the fabric of choice for outerwear. Not as ostentatious (or pricey) as traditional fur, shearling is the perfect compromise for the guy who wants some drama, but without all the fuss. Extra Credit: many of these collars are detachable for a more demure look. Check out some cozy options below. 

Little Black Dress [Lanvin]

Alber does it yet again. If I didn't know better, I'd think that Lanvin sponsored this segment, but the reality is that Alber Elbaz, creative director at Lanvin, just knows how to craft an amazing little black dress. This draped, strapless concoction is perfect balance between sexy and chic.

STRAPPED UP [Alexander McQueen Men's]

Alexander McQueen updates a classic button up shirt with the house's now signature harness panel on the shoulders. The piece must have become a favorite at retail, as the team at McQueen reemerges each season with fresh takes. This season, in addition to classic cotton poplin, offerings include some contrast with flannel and leather. Well done!

gray flannel & leather

ODD FUTURE [Mugler Fall 2012]

Nicola Formichetti is probably best know for his work with fashion-obsessed pop star Lady GaGa, but his resume also boasts an editorship at V Magazine and, more recently, creative director at Mugler, the latest revival of the 80's powerhouse Thierry Mugler. For Fall, the standout feature was a bold, (Balmain-esqe) shoulder. Thierry Mugler was known for his love of sci-fi references, and Formichetti hasn't forgotten the house codes. The same futuristic feel prevailed with oversized fur sleeves and slashed gowns. But there were still some very wearable options; a white wool coat was particularly well suited for the racks at Bergdorf. The last few pieces fell short: the looks were redundant and underwhelming. The finale aside, Formichetti is shaping up for a formidable run at this illustrious house.

Jingle BELLS [Charlotte Olympia]

British shoe-designer Charlotte Olympia updates her classic Dolly pump for the holiday season. Step under the mistletoe  in these fire engine red velvet platforms complete with bell embellished ankle strap, and you're sure to walk away with more than just a kiss.

Good Girl Gone BAD [Rihanna's UNAPOLOGETIC Album Artwork]

There is a never-ending downpour of controversy surrounding her every move, from whom she dates to what she wears, and with her new album titled "UNAPOLOGETIC" slated for a November 19th release, pop superstar Rihanna is letting us all know exactly how she feels. Now live your life!

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Don't Trip, TIP! [Alexander McQueen]

Make a statement this Fall with these heel-less fuchsia suede and enamel appliquéd platform sandals from Sarah Burton's Fall 2012 collection for Alexander McQueen.  

On the Brink [Francesco Scognamiglio Fall 2012]

Francesco Scognamiglio launched his eponymous brand immediately following his graduation from the Naples College of Design in 1998. Almost 15 years later, Scognamiglio hasn't quite achieved the commercial success as some of his peers at the helm of more established houses, but he's consistently a favorite amongst the fashion crowd. He counts the likes of Madonna, Lady GaGa and Donatella Versace as supporters and fans. Needless to say, with such a sexy client roster, Scognamiglio isn't [usually] for the faint of heart, but for Fall 2012, the designer takes a slightly more tempered approach to dressing women. In a departure from all of the sheer fabrics from his previous season, leather was the dominant fabric of choice. Scognamiglio has also demonstrated a knack for tailoring with some effortlessly chic outerwear options. But the designer didn't completely abandon his eccentric flair. He closed the show with a gown the color of sliced grapefruit that at first glanced recalled the look of a lobster. That final look has GaGa's name all over it. 

Purple Rain [Burberry London]

The team at Burberry is no stranger to creating outstanding outerwear. Exhibit A: a plum, double-breasted trench coat with fur sleeves. It's the perfect update to an old classic.

Never Too Much [Tom Ford Fall 2012]

Tom Ford has worked hard to make his name and brand synonymous with quintessential luxury. As a lover of all things glamourous, Ford consistently demonstrates his superior skill at creating a comprehensive look that is perfectly balanced between understated and over-the-top. For Fall 2012, the designer seems to be exploring a tactile obsession as texture was an underlying story within the collection. A plush red fur coat, metallic python sheath dress and supple gown cut from hand stitched crocodile scales were particularly outstanding. As always the clothes were well-tailored, luxe and sexy. Shoulders were puffed up, and waists were cinched with bold, large scale hardware. Ford finished the looks with knee-high boots or classic pumps in leather and python with gold-tipped heels. 

The Hangover 2 [Frank Ocean's Pyramids Video]

Fresh off a string of high profile performances (MTV VMA's and SNL), Frank Ocean once again teams up with visionary director Nabil (Kanye West, Bruno Mars) for his latest music video. "Pyramids" is one of my favorite songs from Ocean's debut album, channel Orange. At nine minutes long, the track feels like a two sided coin; the head is sonically rich and upbeat, while the tail sinks into a slow and seductive pulse. The video clip only features the second half and includes snippets of some of the interludes from the album and an extended guitar solo by John Mayer. Director Nabil has Mr. Ocean gunslinging at a bar, riding a motorcycle through the desert, and ogling at some "talented" but viscous looking performers at a strip club. The comparisons to Kanye West are unavoidable, but I don't think that hurts Ocean's case as one of the year's biggest artists. A video this laced with imagery is the perfect complement to Ocean's equally original sound.



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We Are YOUNG! [Peter and Harry Brant]

Fashion has long been a conduit for launching the "careers" of rich, celebrity offspring, particularly when they come in pairs and are attractive. Think Paris and Nicky Hilton, Kendall and Kylie Jenner or for a more elusive example, Elizabeth and Georgia Jagger. Enter a new dynamic duo with an illustrious and well bank-rolled lineage: Peter and Harry Brant are the progeny of art collector and publishing legend Peter Brant I and 90's era super model Stephanie Seymour. The pretty pair is often spotted at art and fashion events several nights of the week, rarely ever missing a photo op, with the grand exception of the MET Ball; "complications" arose with their invites. MET Ball aside, the boys are the new "it" couple; they have been profiled in Vanity Fair, The New York Times and most recently Interview. It's hardly a surprise considering their parents' fashion connections; Azzedine Alaïa gave Seymour away, and Naomi Campbell was the maid of honor at the super model and publishing tycoon's nuptials. Peter Brant Sr. also happens to own Interview Magazine.

[Yves Saint Laurent]

Summer is rapidly drawing to a close, so it's time to start swapping out your wardrobe staples. Step into Fall with this shoe by Yves Saint Laurent. The super high bootie features the house's signature platform, spectator shoe details and is cut in plum suede. It's a win, win, win for the Fall season.

Bombs Over Baghdad [Duro Olowu Fall 2012]

Nigerian born and London based designer Duro Olowu has a keen eye for bold prints and seventy's era tailoring. For Fall 2012, Olowu played mostly to his strengths, mixing complementary and contrasting patterns in wide-leg pants and shift dresses. But for all the vibrancy of the fabrics, Olowu showed a fair amount of solid black options. He opened with a black wool coat with oversized lapels and puffed sleeves and even offered a few simple black satin gowns. It was a smart extension into less trendy or niche territory; bright colors and busy prints are not appropriate for every occasion nor right for every shopper. But Olowu never forgets his quirky house codes. He closed with a searing lime green leaf printed pant paired with a sky blue and plum cape. 

LBD [Alexander Wang]

Alexander Wang is the go-to-guy for an easy, downtown sexy look, and he hits the nail on the head with this draped, jersey number. The discreet cut out detail adds just enough sexy to this otherwise modest dress. But the best part is that you can easily dress it up or down with some key accessories. Versatility is another Wang specialty. 

Hell Yeah, Fucking Right [LANVIN Men's Fall 2012]

The power suit is back, and at Lanvin, suits never looked this good. Head menswear designer, Lucas Ossendrijver took the bold shouldered silhouette of traditional suits and pumped it full of steroids, exaggerating the proportions to an almost cartoonish scale. The end result of puffed up, rounded shoulders and super-cinched waists was pure genius. Ossendrijver gave the outerwear the same treatment, adding bulky, cropped puffer coats over formal suits. The color palette was decidedly drab, but done in a remarkably luxurious way. A faded/ombre plaid sweater and pant combo was definitely a standout. The accessories were another strongpoint in the collection; the fur embellished caps and slim briefcases felt absolutely fresh. To round things out, Ossendrijver tempered the formality of the suits with a chunky sneaker/boot hybrid done in python. I don't have a single complaint. 

A Star is Born [Elle Varner's Perfectly Imperfect]

Singer Elle Varner released her debut album Perfectly Imperfect today, but her musical talent would have you believe she was a well seasoned veteran, and to some extent she is. The Los Angeles native and [fellow] New York University alum has music in her veins. Growing up with parents in the industry, Varner started singing as soon as she could speak and soon after began learning to play a variety of instruments including piano and guitar. Fast-forward to today, and you can clearly see the fruits of Elle's musical childhood. Perfectly Imperfect is a heartfelt throwback to the 90's era R&B albums that Varner no doubt grew up listening to. Against all the techno-heavy pop music of late, Varner's soulful, raspy voice and honest lyrics are a refreshing reprieve. With a slim and trim tracklisting of 11 songs, Elle showcases her vocal strength, while baring her emotional vulnerability. This kind of paradox is where Elle excels. She is just as convincing as aggressive on the track "Sound Proof Room" as she is as shy and "terrified" on "Not Tonight." The latter is hands down the album's best vocal performance. However, the recording doesn't begin to compare to the live rendition I watched Elle perform at New York's S.O.B.'s earlier this year. That live performance is more evidence that Varner is of a rare breed. Perfectly Imperfect is an honest portrait of a rising star.

Congrats, buddy!

Dracula's Wedding [Givenchy Fall 2012]

After all the sweetness of his Spring show, Riccardo Tisci returns to his goth roots for Givenchy's Fall 2012 collection. This time around Tisci favored leather, lace and fur. Black dominated the palette, but there were also some choice pops of red, purple and orange. Oh, and the frenzy-inducing thigh-high boots from Pre-Fall are back. Enjoy!

Show Me Your SOLE [Lanvin Fall 2012]

Alber Elbaz upgrades this season's classic pump with a super high heel, skewed platform and crystal encrusted underside. Now you can leave a lasting impression as you walk away. 

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Class President [Wes Gordon Fall 2012]

At just 26, Wes Gordon has completed studies at Central Saint Martin, worked at famed fashion houses Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford, and created his own eponymous brand, for which he has already received numerous accolades. Anyone of these accomplishments could overrun a seasoned fashion alum, but this southern-bred designer seems more than up for the challenge. For Fall, Gordon mixes things up, infusing his ultra luxe aesthetic with an albeit controlled dose of chaos. The house staples were all still there, but with a downtown edge. His signature wide-legged pants, for example, were cut in a metallic ocelot print and paired with a sequin top baring just a smidgen of the model's midsection. A white knit sweater belted over a full black skirt was almost minimal. And a green mullet dress was cut with a raw hem; the contrasting lining was just for extra credit. 

PUPPY LOVE [T-Shirts]

Apparently, the dog days are not over. Big brands like Balenciaga, Burberry and Givenchy are plastering visages of pooches on men's T-shirts for Fall. I wonder if there is a subliminal message hidden in the imagery.

Balenciaga

Burberry Prorsum

Givenchy

Pumped Up Kicks [Wedge Sneakers]

Isabel Marant has singlehandedly ushered in the most unlikely trend in women's footwear with her suede wedge sneakers. The fashion crowd literally went bonkers for the sporty style, and the masses are close on their heels. But Marant is hardly a stranger to creating shoe frenzies; her slouchy fringed boots from past seasons were perpetually sold out at every major retailer. What's impressive here is that after season upon season of sky high stilettos and chunky platforms, Marant looks in the opposite direction to the decidedly unglamorous tennis shoe for inspiration for her latest footwear craze. Following Marant's success, a slew of imitators have joined the game and not just from the typical knock off culprits; brands like Giuseppe Zanotti and Marc Jacobs are capitalizing on the trend. The originals by Isabel Marant are still selling out as they hit the floor, so maybe these other designers are on to something.

HOMEROOM [DSQUARED2 Fall 2012]

In honor of the approaching fall/school season, Lifestyles of the Rich & Shameless will be focusing on some "recent graduates" in the worlds of fashion, music and entertainment. Consumers are apparently obsessed with newness, but there is still an undercurrent of long established standards that we cling to. This is the intersection where we kick things off. First up, relative veterans Dan and Dean Caten of DSQUARED2 literally teach a class on how to fuse the old with the new.



I hope you took notes.

Fly Like A Bird [Lanvin]

The Element of Freedom turned out to be a surprisingly prophetic theme for me. So as the month draws to a close, I'm spreading my wings and taking flight surely towards greener pastures. ::Diddy voice:: Now, let's work!

Necklace by Lanvin


"And the day came when the risk it took to remain tightly closed in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to bloom."

The Art of Gentlemanliness [Burberry Prorsum Menswear Fall 2012]

Burberry's Christopher Bailey looked to old school charm for Fall's menswear collection. Double-breasted suits and coats were cut in heavy wools, tweed and corduroy. The collection bordered on austere, but Bailey was sure to infuse some fun. He spiced things up first with the tailoring, cutting pants and jackets for an especially snug silhouette. Next he added color to the mix with teal caps and striped scarves. Always a fan of adding something unexpected to the equation, the color blocked parkas and studded leather accessories were the icing on this already very tasty cake. 

LBD [Dolce & Gabbana]

Dolce & Gabbana is no stranger to the little black dress. This season the designers whip up a seductively simple strapless number in tulle and lace. Opt for bare wrists, a bold neck and patent pumps to complete the look.

Turn Up The Music [Lanvin Fall 2012]

Alber Elbaz is in a festive mood, and with good reason; this season marks his tenth year at the helm of the luxury colossus that is the house of Lanvin. And this house sure knows how to throw a party. Elbaz started things off strong, with a kaleidoscope of minimal, yet structured, knee-length dresses in rich jewel tones and bold brights. Then he offered a brief reprieve with separates in darker shades. A short, black velvet number modeled by Karlie Kloss was particularly easy. But in typical Lanvin fashion, Elbaz saved the best for last. The finale was literally an explosion of ruffles, lace, brocades, and vibrant furs. And let's not neglect the jewelry. Gaudy baubles danced on earlobes and necks shamelessly. And the jewels didn't end there. Those "jewel tones" from the opening reemerged as actual jewels heavily appliquéd on dresses. And just to be comprehensive, Elbaz complemented the look with bright colored pumps with soles covered in crystals. Decadence at it's absolute best!

I Know You Want Me [Oscar de la Renta]

Oscar de la Renta's foray into jewelry has been nothing short of perfection. The pieces are classic, yet fresh, often with art deco and artisanal details. Those features have proved outstanding resources for creating a collection of very unique statement jewelry. The comprehensive collection consists of bracelets, necklaces, earrings and rings all available in a variety of colors. Check out this sampling of earrings from the fall 2012 collection below.

MIX IT UP [ETRO]

Etro switches things up with a funky take on the classic men's cotton shirt. Mixing different gingham, stripe and check prints on collars and cuffs, designer Kean Etro creates a look that's equal parts sophisticated and playful.

Swim Good [Swimsuits]

From surreal, to vintage, and on to tribal, printed swimsuits have been a major trend this season. Check out some cool, original and flattering options from Rosamosario, Zimmerman and Mara Hoffman.

Can I Walk With You? [Giuseppe Zanotti]

Giuseppe Zanotti stikes again with this pair of crystal encrusted peep toe heel-less wedges. Tip carefully.

In Full BLOOM [Monique Lhuillier Resort 2013]

Monique Lhuillier turned to a retina-searing color palette for her latest resort collection. Bright yellows, oranges and pinks were worked into floral or paint splatter prints. Thankfully the shapes were simple in contrast to the overwhelming color story. The silhouette was cinched at the waist with full or slim skirts, short shorts, and cigarette pants. A crocodile embossed shift dress, pink one shoulder draped gown and orange appliquéd mullet dress were stand outs. The shoes, ironically, were not.  

LBD [Lanvin]

This month's little black dress comes courtesy of Lanvin. With a fitted bodice, sheer sleeves and raw edges, it is both youthful and modest. But the real beauty is in its simplicity. This silhouette is extremely forgiving and especially favors boxy figures. Finish the look with bold pumps and earrings.

Under the Sea [Alexander McQueen]

Alexander McQueen updates the label's signature box clutches for Spring 2012 with the season's underwater motif. With details ranging from crystal-embellished stingray, rusted gold fish scales and iridescent pearls, these bags could easily pass for lost treasure. I'm sure their price tags will reflect that sentiment as well.

Can't Get Enough [Louis Vuitton Men's Spring 2012]

Easy sophistication is at the very core of the Louis Vuitton brand, and new menswear designer Kim Jones is quickly learning the house codes. Sharp suits, printed short sets and tailored outerwear made for an especially luxurious, albeit wearable wardrobe. All this is to be expected from a house with an illustrious 150+ year legacy and annual revenues in the billions. But Jones didn't play it entirely safe; he mined his own illustrious history as a British child growing up in Kenya for references. The end result included a Masai-inspired update to Vuitton's iconic damier pattern in a bold red and blue plaid as well as a series of casual coats cut from crocodile. Let's call it leisurely luxury at its best. 

Don't Walk Away [Nicholas Kirkwood]

These black suede pumps by Nicholas Kirkwood are anything but basic. Standing at six inches tall, the shoe features Kirkwood's new signature slanted platform, but the real magic is in the ruffle trimmed heel. Enjoy.

Love Is Like The SEA [Alexander McQueen]

Sarah Burton takes to the open sea for Alexander McQueen's Spring 2012 collection. Strong shoulders and cinched waists with a delicate flourish at the hem was the dominant silhouette, but there were also some notable baby doll shapes and mullet gowns. Besides being utterly beautiful, what comes across loud and clear in this collection is the tediousness of Sarah Burton's obsessive process. From the iridescent , micro-pleated fabrics to the coral encrusted beading and the laser cut leather, the collection was executed with the utmost attention to the details. 

How It Feels to FLY [Christian Louboutin]

Christian Louboutin celebrates 20 years with special edition releases of some the label's most iconic pieces. Plumage and python pair up for the the revamped Artemis bag. At $9,000 it's hardly a practical purchase, but this stand out purse is sure to be an instant collectors item. 

You Don't Know My Name [Wes Gordon Spring 2012]

New York City designer Wes Gordon is quickly making a name for himself with his sophisticated and luxe creations. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, the 25 year-old's résumé includes stints at houses like Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford; so it's no surprise that fine fabrics and expert tailoring would be a few of Gordon's signatures. For Spring 2012, he cut jackets and shorts from python, and even more impressively, he has the good sense not to pair them together at his presentation. There were also chunky lace boleros and printed jumpsuits. His high-waisted, wide-legged trousers continue to be a hit as well. With taste this mature, it is a slippery slope into the matronly arena, but Gordon keeps things fresh with light fabrics, bright pops of color and a tasteful dose of skin.

DRUMS PLEASE [Shipley & Halmos Men's Spring 2012]

The Shipley & Halmos collection literally looks like a Barney's catalog. Virtually every piece has amazing consumer appeal. That is not to say that the collection is by any means basic. Suits were cut slimmer and the denim came in more colorful hues. The designers also expanded the accessories department with more shoe offerings, sunglasses and even beach towels. Looks like they've got everything covered. 

LADY & THE TRAMP [Christian Louboutin]

Up high or down low, sexy or modest, Christian Louboutin has a shoe for you. The designer updates his classic Pigalle flat and high-heeled pump with some choice words embellished across the toes. Wear your heart on you feet, not your sleeve. 

The Valiant Little Tailor [Louis Vuitton Spring 2012]

At Louis Vuitton, the presentation is just as important as the product, and in typical Jacobs fashion, the Spring 2012 collection, both the clothes and show, was the stuff of fashion fairy tales. When the clock struck midnight, models like Liu Wen, Joan Smalls and Kate Moss sat perched on a fully functioning white carousel; one by one each lady descended from her pony, clad in an ice cream color palette of sheer fabrics, delicate appliques, plastic pailettes and feathers galore. But Vuitton's girls aren't all sweetness; baby blue and yellow crocodile biker jackets were of the edgier variety. The accessories, however, were a mixed bag, literally. There was quite a variety in the shape, size and materials of the bags, but the end result was largely underwhelming. As for the footwear: I absolutely hate mules! These, in particular, feel both unfinished and overwrought; though the pointed cap toe complemented the ladylike look nicely.

Editor's Note [The Element of FREEDOM]

Run like the wind, spread your wings and fly. Summer is by far my favorite season, and it is just around the corner. The vibe is laid back and easy. Think effortless! Pack away the boots for sandals, replace the wool with cotton, and ditch the blow-dryer for a styling wand.




sandal by Ancient Greek Sandals

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You Had Me @ Hello [GUCCI]

Gucci's Spring 2012 collection was a shameless homage to the roaring 20's. Beaded dresses and geometric shapes dominated the runway, so it's only fitting that the accessories embody the same festive, jazzy spirit. This suede sandal was the stand out gem of the collection. With a delicate chain detail, art deco embellished heel and super steep arch, it's the perfect update to a swinging classic. Enjoy!

MIDAS TOUCH [Alexander McQueen]

Everything Sarah Burton touches these days turns to gold, and this shiny suit is no exception. The folks at Alexander McQueen weave gold (and silver) silk into a expertly tailored and polished suit. But even with all its sophistication, there is still an element of ease; the cropped hem on the pant and buttonless jacket take the point home. It's a best of both worlds approach (and execution) that only McQueen could deliver. Enjoy!

Two Tickets to Paradise [Céline Resort 2011]

In honor of the glorious weather, let's take a look at some summer-appropriate pieces. Phoebe Philo's Resort collection for Céline is the epitome of chic! Drawing on 70's era motifs for inspiration, Philo uses clean silhouettes and color blocking to craft a look that's equal parts ease and sophistication. 

"Stay Close to Me, Summer" [June Ambrose x Selima Optique]

Celebrity stylist and soon to be VH1 reality star, June Ambrose adds eyewear designer to her extensive resume with a capsule collection of sunglasses created in collaboration with luxury optical brand Selima Optique. Rarely caught without an amazing pair of frames - often of her own design, Ambrose is notorious for her eyewear obsession. The collection offers a range of colors and shapes, so whether your style is classic, edgy or surreal, Ambrose has a pair of glasses just for you. Ever the family woman, the fabulous mother of two even named a few pieces after her children. The full collection is available at Selima boutiques and online. Styled by June premieres March 19th!