Back to the Future [Alexander McQueen Fall 2012]

Sarah Burton throws us a curve ball and takes fashion in a creative and fresh direction for Fall 2012. The look is all about volume and texture. Models were completely enveloped in the plushest fabrics or at the very least swathed in luscious furs. The silhouette was largely cinched at the waist, but full skirted at the hips and expansive at the shoulders. Burton accessorized the look with shearling covered boots of the heelless wedge variety and oversized futuristic visors. The pale color palette was surprisingly light for fall, and while the pieces moved beautifully on the runway, there was an ominous, dark edge to the collection. Aesthetics aside, it looks like Burton is predicting a more severe or harsh environment in the future ahead; at least we'll be well dressed.

The New Anna Karenina [Balmain Fall 2012]

Olivier Rousteing continues his run at Balmain with yet another exquisitely luxurious collection. The 26 year-old creative director carried over much of the Russian theme from Pre-Fall, but what's missing this time around is all the fuss. Where the previous collection was polished, this show was relaxed. All of the spectacular details remained: leather sweatshirts were outfitted with floral embroideries, dresses were encrusted with pearls and velvet was dévoré with intricate Fabergé patterns. But boxier silhouettes, no jewelry and clean faced models made the clothes feel easy. The collection maintained all the expensive elements (including the price tag) that fans of the brand expect, but with none of the pretentious severity normally associated with pearls, velvet and leather. We'll call it casual luxury.

Lamb Chops Play Along [Men's Shearling Coats]

Though not nearly as cold as winters past, this season is proving to be less mild than last year's. And menswear designers from Carven to Gucci and McQueen are prepared. This season, shearling was the fabric of choice for outerwear. Not as ostentatious (or pricey) as traditional fur, shearling is the perfect compromise for the guy who wants some drama, but without all the fuss. Extra Credit: many of these collars are detachable for a more demure look. Check out some cozy options below. 

Little Black Dress [Lanvin]

Alber does it yet again. If I didn't know better, I'd think that Lanvin sponsored this segment, but the reality is that Alber Elbaz, creative director at Lanvin, just knows how to craft an amazing little black dress. This draped, strapless concoction is perfect balance between sexy and chic.

STRAPPED UP [Alexander McQueen Men's]

Alexander McQueen updates a classic button up shirt with the house's now signature harness panel on the shoulders. The piece must have become a favorite at retail, as the team at McQueen reemerges each season with fresh takes. This season, in addition to classic cotton poplin, offerings include some contrast with flannel and leather. Well done!

gray flannel & leather

ODD FUTURE [Mugler Fall 2012]

Nicola Formichetti is probably best know for his work with fashion-obsessed pop star Lady GaGa, but his resume also boasts an editorship at V Magazine and, more recently, creative director at Mugler, the latest revival of the 80's powerhouse Thierry Mugler. For Fall, the standout feature was a bold, (Balmain-esqe) shoulder. Thierry Mugler was known for his love of sci-fi references, and Formichetti hasn't forgotten the house codes. The same futuristic feel prevailed with oversized fur sleeves and slashed gowns. But there were still some very wearable options; a white wool coat was particularly well suited for the racks at Bergdorf. The last few pieces fell short: the looks were redundant and underwhelming. The finale aside, Formichetti is shaping up for a formidable run at this illustrious house.

Jingle BELLS [Charlotte Olympia]

British shoe-designer Charlotte Olympia updates her classic Dolly pump for the holiday season. Step under the mistletoe  in these fire engine red velvet platforms complete with bell embellished ankle strap, and you're sure to walk away with more than just a kiss.